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Polyester
The major synthetic fibre used in outdoor clothing is polyester. Polyester is easy to care for and quick drying (the majority of energy consumption in most clothing life cycles occurs in the washing stage). It is also made from oil, which is not a renewable resource in the way that a sheep is. However, in 2008 polyester fibre accounted for only 0.6% of oil production. The manufacturing is energy intensive – weight for weight, polyester uses 63% more energy to produce than cotton – and creates some pretty toxic by-products. On the upside, all polyester can be recycled and this is increasingly becoming the case with outdoor clothing brands.
Polyamide (Nylon)
Nylon is used less than polyester for outdoor clothing, although a lot more in tents and equipment. Its main use for clothing is in cheaper or super light weight waterproofs, where it is often given a coating of polyeurethane (PU). This coating makes the nylon much more difficult to recycle. Recycled nylon, from post-consumer waste, is however available.
PTFE
PTFE is what makes Gore-Tex and similar fabrics waterproof yet breathable. It comes from a family of chemicals which are used to make products such as Scotchgard and Teflon. Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) is used as a surfactant to make PTFE and also occurs as a by-product of some of the other chemicals.
PFOA is, according to the Environmental Working Group, “the most persistent synthetic chemical known to man”. Traces of it are now found in pretty much everyone, from pigeons to polar bears. Studies have shown that it is highly toxic, causes strokes, cancer, increased chloesterol and damages pre-natal development. 3M, the manufacturers of Scotchgard, withdrew their line of perfluorochemical products in 2002 amid concerns about their persistence in people and the environment. DuPont, the makers of Teflon products, plan to do the same by 2015.
Both companies have turned their back on hugely profitable products despite
a lack of published proof that the current levels of the perfluorochemicals
are dangerous to humans. There is no evidence that wearing PTFE based
clothes is harmful to health, but buying them is obviously contributing
to the PFC industry. Some outdoors brands such as Páramo/Nikwax
and Patagonia are now refusing to use PFC technology.